“Hut hoe!” the steerman bellowed, so I switched sides, gripping the T-end of the paddle and digging into the glassy blue beneath me. The only sounds: water splashes as the canoe cut forward, and the labored breath of other paddlers.
But why were tears rolling down my face?
I’ve done sunrise canoe paddles before – off the shores of Waikiki, off Kauai. They’re a fun touristy feature at a lot of resorts.
Like many Californians, I’ve been to the Hawaiian Islands more than a few times. In fact, statistics from the Hawaiian Tourism Authority show that Southern California is Hawaii’s largest source market, making up 30 percent of all visitors. I’m just one of millions drawn to the unique culture and unforgettable landscapes these islands offer.
So why was I getting choked up during this paddle trip at Mauna Lani Resort off the Big Island’s Kohala Coast?
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The Mauna Lani resort sprawls over 32 oceanfront acres along the verdant strip of coast on Hawaii Island’s northwest side, where lava flows over the past two centuries have created a lunar-like landscape broken only by the green belt near the ocean.
Francis Brown, an important land developer in this part of Hawaii – the resort has a suite named after him – partnered with The Tokyu Corporation to create the Mauna Lani. (Fun fact: the Japanese architect created the hotel in the shape of an arrow that points toward Japan). It first opened its doors in 1983. Then in 2018 Auberge Resorts Collection took over the property, its first in the state, relaunching the resort in January 2020 after millions in renovations.
Evidence of the renovations is everywhere — from its rooms refreshed with a decor heavy on natural fabrics and earthy textures, its lush Auberge spa, three swimming pools connected to the beach by a great lawn, state-of-the-art workout facilities and racquet sports plus a 36-hole golf course.
Foodies will be pleased with mealtime options: There’s unique Mediterranean-fusion dining at HāLani and Asian-inspired cuisine created by chef Rhoda Magbitang at CanoeHouse, both emphasizing local produce and seafood. In fact, CanoeHouse is credited with helping to birth Hawai’i Regional Cuisine, a major food movement in the 1990s that shifted its focus to locally sourced ingredients and the cultural influences of the islands.
Celebrated chefs Nancy Silverton and Andrew Zimmerman, along with New York’s Nami Nori restaurant, are among the culinary talents who have partnered with Mauna Lani. This summer, L.A.’s James Beard Award-winning sake bar OTOTO joined that list to add its take on Japanese food to the Surf Shack’s outdoor menu.
I could go on, but you get the idea. I mean, who doesn’t appreciate the casual opulence of a five-star resort? Yet what separates the Mauni Lani from other high-end vacation properties on the islands is not the new renovations, but what is ancient. Hawaiian history feels like the core of the Mauna Lani experience, underscored by its “Living Culture” programs that share local history and traditions with guests.
A vibrant Hawaiian civilization thrived for about 800 years before any Westerner arrived, and the resort has invested in preserving the heritage of that civilization found on its grounds. Steps from the beach, you can explore the trails of Kalahuipua’a Historical Park, created by the resort.
Guided tours, on foot or by e-bike, point out the petroglyphs, take you through lava tubes and explain the uses of the traditional structures found along the paths.
(Photo by Samantha Dunn)
But what’s really cool? The old fishponds.
Yes. Fishponds.
Hewn from black lava rock, a labyrinth of seven ponds is fed by freshwater springs and seawater, and shaded by palms and native hardwoods. This brackish environment is what native Hawaiians used to create sustainable protein sources. Mauna Lani staff still manage the ponds in the traditional way: Ocean tides bring fish in through a series of wooden sluice gates. The gates allow small fish to come and go but are too narrowly spaced for mature, fattened catch to get back out. Our guide explained that rather than eating the biggest, healthiest fish, the Hawaiians made it a practice to harvest lesser fish from the ponds, allowing the strongest to replenish the population.
The next morning during the invigorating outdoor yoga class under a massive old Banyan tree, the genius of this aquaculture system kept playing in my mind. Not what I ever have imagined thinking about while on vacation, but such is the uniqueness of the Mauna Lani.
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Out on the water in the canoe, the steerman was explaining the concept of piko, an eternal spirit believed to be anchored in these waters by Hawaii’s five great mountains: Hualālai, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Kohala and Haleakalā on Maui are all visible in the distance. He says piko intrinsically links the people, the culture and the land.
Tears kept rolling down my cheeks.
Maybe it was piko causing a feeling of oneness in this group of resort guests as we pulled together to move the canoe forward.
Maybe it was the crystalline Pacific below and the pink dawn sky above.
Maybe it was the raw honesty of these watermen with us who have called Hawaii home their whole lives; for some, generations of their families before. When they spoke of their cultural traditions, of safeguarding the environment, it sounded not rote but sincere. The traditional blessing of the canoe before we’d pushed the outrigger into the lapping waves had not felt like a scripted performance, even though they must have repeated these words countless times for countless tourists.
Or maybe the tears came because the morning sun illuminated my teenage son’s profile as he paddled in front of me. The sunlight gave me the vision of the independent, strong man he’s becoming. A sizeable proportion of Mauna Lani guests are families who return year after year, and now I understand why.
As we turned the canoe back toward the shore, the steerman told us that in Hawaiian, “Mauna Lani” means “mountain reaching heaven.” It’s a place of transformation and tradition.
(Photo by Zak Noylezak/courtesy Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection)
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